- Dermarolling originated as a skin-care practice, but it's also great to use on the scalp to encourage hair growth.
- To practice at-home dermarolling, it's important to do so correctly or you can risk damaging the hair follicle and/or causing an infection.
- Below, experts share how to dermaroll for hair growth the right way.
Whether you're dealing with thinning strands or just after longer, thicker tresses, perhaps you're curious about using a dermaroller for hair growth. While the tool first rose to popularity as a facial treatment known as microneedling, proponents are also touting its benefits for the scalp and hair. In fact, InStyle turned to dermatologist Azadeh Shirazi, MD, and trichologists Helen Reavey, Afope Atoyebi, and Gretchen Friese to get the full breakdown of using a dermaroller on your scalp.
While the treatment can be performed in an office by a professional, it's also possible to dermaroll at home. However, if you're opting for the latter, it's important that you do so correctly for best results and to minimize any risks and side effects. Because dermarolling too deep or too hard can damage the hair follicle and lead to infections. To learn more about dermarolling the scalp, including who it's for and whether it's effective in stimulating hair growth, keep scrolling for our expert-approved guide.
Meet the expert
- Helen Reavey is a trichologist and the founder of Act+Acre.
- Afope Atoyebi is a trichologist, as well as a health and beauty advocate.
- Gretchen Friese is a hairstylist and trichologist forBosleyMD.
- Azadeh Shirazi, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Azimd Skincare.
What Is Dermarolling for the Scalp?
A dermaroller is a hand-held tool comprising tiny needles on a roller. The needles cause micro-trauma to the skin to trigger increased blood flow, says Atoyebi. Because blood carries nutrients and oxygen, increased blood flow is beneficial to the skin and hair. "When used correctly, the increased blood flow and release of growth factors can stimulate hair growth as well as increase the thickness and density of the hair," Atoyebi adds.
The Benefits of Dermarolling for Hair
Promotes Hair Growth
Reavey explains that the micro-tears caused in the skin trigger the production of stem cells, which speed up natural hair growth hormones. "Hair grows at half an inch per month, maximum, and slower sometimes if you aren't getting enough nutrients in your diet, [experience high] stress, or have some scalp concerns," says Reavey. "Dermarolling and using scalp treatments is the only way to speed up hair growth."
Enhances Hair Products
Similar to skin care, the tiny punctures in the skin also help with product absorption, which iswhy dermarolling the scalp is proven beneficialwhen combined with hair-care products and other treatments. "When rolled over the scalp or hairline, a dermaroller makes it easier for the active ingredients of topicals and oils to reach the hair follicles," saysFriese.
Improves Scalp Health
In addition to increased hair growth, density, and thickness, a dermaroller can also encourage collagen production, stimulate cell turnover, and improve scalp circulation. This provides a healthier environment for hair to grow, says Friese.
As an alternative to dermarolling, try massaging your scalp. You can use a scalp massager or your fingers to stimulate blood flow, remove buildup, and support healthy hair growth.
Who It's For
Most people can benefit from dermarolling their scalp, says Atoyebi. However, it may be less effective for those experiencing late stages of hair loss or total baldness, she adds. Similarly, dermarolling could be problematic for those who have seborrheic dermatitis (a type of eczema that usually affects the scalp), dandruff, eczema, and psoriasis. Since these are already inflammatory to the scalp, dermarolling "could worsen the condition or result in an infection," Atoyebi tells InStyle. In this case, "It's best to see your dermatologist and treat these conditions before dermarolling," advises Dr. Shirazi.
How to Use a Dermaroller on Your Scalp
Get The Right Tools
According to Atoyebi, your dermarolling needles should smaller than 1.5 millimeters. "Using needles that exceed this length can go too deep into the dermis and damage the hair follicle," Atoyebi says, adding that this can "worsen the condition the dermarolling intended to remedy." Many dermarollers developed for the scalp have needles that are 0.25 millimeters long.
Make Sure Your Scalp Is Clean
A healthy scalp begins with a clean scalp. So Reavey recommends cleansing your hair and scalp prior to using a dermaroller. This will help to create a good environment for hair to grow.
Use Gentle Motions
You'll need to prep your hair before you take the tool to your scalp. Start by parting your hair to match the width of your dermaroller. "Parting the hair will help to ensure the needles can puncture the scalp adequately without getting caught in the hair and potentially damaging it," says Atoyebi. Then, gently roll the tool front to back once before doing it side to side. Friese recommends rolling over the same area four to five times before moving onto another section.
Don't Overdo It
Like many skin and hair care treatments, dermarolling frequency varies from person to person."The shorter the needles, like 0.25 millimeters, the more often you can use it," says Friese, recommending use every two to three days. For longer needles, like 1.5 millimeters, she suggests every couple of weeks since it punctures more deeply.
Regardless of your hair type or particular scalp condition, be careful not to overdo it. "Dermarolling more often doesn't mean improved or quicker results," says Atoyebi, adding that "doing so too frequently can cause short-term shedding" and irreversible damage.
Risks and Side Effects
According to the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA), one of the main risks of dermarolling is skin damage—like "bleeding, bruising, redness, tightness, itching, and peeling." However, these should go away in a few weeks, tops. The FDA adds that more serious risks include "spots on the skin, lines on the face, a flare-up of cold sores, swollen lymph nodes, and infection."
It's also important to note that these risks are higher with at-home treatments versus those in-office. To minimize potential risks and side effects, we recommend seeking out a trained professional to perform a microneedling treatment on your scalp.
Aftercare
Once you've dermarolled your scalp, apply a product that targets your hair concerns. For example, if you experience androgenetic alopecia, Friese recommends following up with a product containing minoxidil.
To maintain hair healthy and growing, you can also opt for a hydrating scalp serum. Try a lightweight formula that feels refreshing on the scalp and also helps reduce hair thinning, dryness, and fallout, while protecting against sun damage and pollution.
Post-care also includes cleaning and properly storing your tools. "Clean your device with rubbing alcohol after each use and be sure it's dry before you place it back in the case," says Dr. Shirazi. Once back in the case, store it in a cool and dry area.
The Final Takeaway
If you're looking to stimulate hair growth, dermarolling your scalp may be a viable option. You can either see a professional or try dermarolling at home. If going the DIY route, make sure to gather the right tools and prep the scalp properly to reap the most benefits from this hair treatment. Keep in mind that it is not recommended for those dealing with late-stage hair loss. Before trying dermarolling for hair growth, make sure to see a professional to find out whether it's the best treatment option for you.